Leaches, Leavings, and Landslides

September 4: How glorious! A bucket of hot water from which to pour my shower, one ladle at a time over my head. My clothes are washed, hopefully to dry by morning.

Our trek from Dodital to Sangamchatti was fascinating. Shortly after we started out, we found ourselves sharing the trail with water buffalo and a family that was herding them. We followed for quite some time before we were able to pass. We then came into a village that has come to represent, for me, so much of this trek. It was shrouded in smoke, perhaps mixed with clouds. It is not that there aren’t any places with similar living conditions in the States; I know that there are. But they are conditions that those of us who trek India are not used to seeing. And yet, as with so many other places and times, we were greeted with total warmth, acceptance, and joy.

We stopped for tea before proceeding on down the trail. Much of the day was spent walking in and out of clouds. I remember one time thinking that if I were to slip and fall, to roll down the mountainside, what a beautiful place this would be to die. It was so lush, so verdant, so embracing. It was neither a fear nor a wish, just an incredible acceptance of the possibility, the inevitability, and the beauty of where we were.

By the time we stopped for lunch, the sun was out. The donkeys were grazing in a corral below a concrete patio. When we arrived we were surprised to be told that we should remove our shoes and socks. Although we were used to removing our shoes at religious sites, this did not look like a shrine. Nor was it. The reason was much more pragmatic. Shortly before arriving there, we had crossed an area that was known for leaches. Sure enough, they were in our shoes, in our socks, and in many cases already attached to our bodies. Salt and sunshine was enough to rid us of most of the leaches. However, as I discovered when we arrived at the guest house this evening, one must have hidden in the fiber of my sock and spent the entire afternoon enjoying a banquet of my blood.

Another, more significant, surprise awaited many of us this evening. At dinner it was announced that of the twelve who had begun the trek, four were leaving in the morning. A fifth did not hesitate to let it be known that if transportation had been available, he would have left as well. I, too, had formulated my exit strategy over the past three days. When I was not meditating on where to take my next step, I was on occasion justifying why I shouldn’t have to. Yet one does not just “get up and leave” in the middle of a trek. You have to arrive somewhere first. And, when we arrived at Sangamchatti, the joy, the sense of gratitude and achievement erased all other thoughts. I can do this. I have done this. I will continue to do this.


September 5: This morning we are smaller by 1/3 of our original group. We have relinquished one guide of two. We are now comfortably in three cars and are heading to Gangotri. What we are soon to discover is that the road, a national highway, has been blocked by a landslide.